AZ’s “DIARY OF A DAMNED MAN”

September 26, 2008

LIPS LIKE SUGaR

 She floats like a swan
Grace on the water
Lips like sugar

Just when you think youve caught her
She glides across the water
She calls for you tonight
To share this moonlight

You’ll flow down her river
She’ll ask you and youll give her
Lips like sugar
Sugar kisses

She knows what she knows
I know what shes thinking
Sugar kisses

Just when you think shes yours
Shes flown to other shores
To laugh at how you break
And melt into this lake

Youll flow down her river
But you’ll never give her
Lips like sugar
Sugar kisses

She’ll be my mirror
Reflect what I am
A loser and a winner
The king of siam
And my siamese twin
Alone on the river
Mirror kisses

Lips like sugar
Sugar kisses

September 25, 2008

Amusing Anecdote?

I’m commuting to work this morning and was running early as usual. I’m sitting on the train and reading “Generation Of Swine” (hardback) and this young lady keeps staring. And you know how you can feel when someone’s watching, and I really felt it. And I was starting to feel selfconscious, like my zipper was down or something like that. Well about 10 minutes into the commute I want to put business Alex away,  and let out a Zander exclamation, , “What? Can I help you?”
 

Then I realized, what I am holding in front of the book that was being used as a book mark. It was my ticket stub from Erotioca LA 2007, which means I must have last had this book on a plane. And it that business everything is printed BIG and Colourful, as to not only serve as your entrance but also an advertisement.
 

It didn’t even occur to me as it was non other than a bookmark to myself.
 

Well I was advertising alright. I just hope she read the part that said COMPLIMENTARY, otherwise I looked like some fucking porn pervert on the 7 AM red line train to downtown.
 

FUCK! - AZ

September 22, 2008

Sept Sun (complete)

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photo by Holly

It’s been awhile and I haven’t felt much like sharing much of anything about life as of late. This hasn’t been the most exciting summer of my career by any means as a  result of some events early in the season. But Summer could not have ended better, it just got a little rocky coming to it’s beautiful epilogue.

I’d like to thank a couple of guys I met early in the season, Dave and Steve. Great guys, fun guys and bros that have proven that they are good friends. Thanks guys. There’s gonna be a lot more fun to be had. And old friends Bob H., Chris, and Jeff, some of the people I’ve known the longest saw a fucked up situation all the way through the end, and I really am glad that we’ve established a friendship and along that way also worked together on my ol publication.

But some friends don’t make it for the long haul. And one of them was a troubled gal that wandered into my life on a cold Oct night just before Halloween 2000. It was a short lived fling but we remained friends and I was there for her, if only as someone to talk to up till she decided to end her life 1 week ago.

Those of you who know who I’m talking about, may know who I refer to, but many of you do not know that crazy lil chick really went over this time. She’s no longer on this earth as a living breathing life. And on Sept. 8 I received an email telling me what I meant to her, though it really didn’t mean that much to me, I’m glad she believed she had at least one person. She ended that message informing  me she was going to overdose. I wrote back, the email went unread. She did it.

I have closure now so I will share he email as it was written without idenifying the person. She signed it off with a single initial of the nickname I had given her:

Sept 8, 2008

In the short time that we were together, I always felt that you loved me. Hindsight is 20/20 naturally, but you, I believe loved me for who I was and not who you wanted me to be not because I looked a certain way etc.

I don’t know how to say goodbye, but I am taking 300 phenbarb tonight. Why? My life simply isnt good enough. It isn’t what I want.

Will love you always.

Z.

That particular weekend I was at a good friends wedding with a lovely “date” for lack of a better word. She was someone that made a big impression on me 13 /2 months prior. Someone that I got in contact with once I was set free from the chains that I permitted to confine me for 18 months. And even though the weather was dreary, dank and damp, we had a really good time that weekend, only to have the bliss end with the message of the passing of my friend.

But it wasn’t just the message that I received. The responsibility was cast upon me to track down her family and deliver the painful news. I did not ask for this job.

All I recalled was the name of a sister and perhaps she was in Hammond Indiana. Holly hung with me and unselfishly blew off her responsibilities to be there for me. She was the only one I let in. I didn’t tell anyone else nor did I want to. A duty had been bestowed upon me and I was indeed going to see it through. She saw it through with me. Something she didn’t ask for.

I hadn’t mentioned her name or existance up till now, because this is really nobody’s business. Too many people like to get involved as I have learned. But I appreciate what she did and I greatly appreciate that she ended the summer with me the same place I began it in May and returned to alone in July, where I was fucking miserable but for my good friend Mich. But that was all in the past as Holly met me early last Friday morning and we packed the car and set off for a new adventure in ol Green County WI.

She’s talented, she’s got it together, she’s smart, well traveled, independent well mannered extremely artistic, and yes she’s attractive. All things that impress me and that I admire highly. And off we were on a day that couldn’t have been more opposite than the weather we had gone through the previous weekend.

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DAY ONE

We started with lunch at the saloon at the Wild West Town in Union Il, a fun place I only discovered this summer, which has become my own personal playground.

Then we were off to Camp Sweet Minnihaha where we were set up at site C by 2PM. After getting supplies which included too much food, plenty of booze (she more than holds her own) and firewood, we headed off for Cheese Days www.cheesedays.com in Monroe, WI in search of my pal Mich who we all know and love as the Irish Piper.

Monroe, known as the Swiss Cheese Capital of the USA, is a city in and the county seat of Green County, Wisconsin, United States. The population, mainly Swiss-Germanic, was 10,843 at the 2000 census. The number of violent crimes recorded by the FBI in 2003 was 12. The number of murders and homicides was 0. The violent crime rate was 1.1 per 1,000 people. The first cabin in Monroe was built in 1835, just prior to the designation of Wisconsin as a territory. It developed in two separate areas, one called Monroe and the other New Mexico, the latter centered in the present Lincoln Park area. Monroe was located where Spring Square is now located (the parking lot at 16th Avenue and 12th Street). Rivalry between the two was keen, and both competed for selection as the county seat. Eventually they were consolidated and the village was incorporated in 1839. The official charter as a municipality came in 1882.

Along the way we stopped in a field to shoot some pictures for fun and made our way into this small town with a big party, and LOTS of children. It was right out of Village of the Damned. People walked and tried to eat the food that they had dripping down their hands, arms and bodies. Not to mention the mess on their faces. I never saw so many corn dogs. I never saw so much KETCHUP! And the humor we felt at the site was short lived. And these people loved to stare!

One of our missions was to buy some of the delicious cheese which we did and that alone was worth heading out to the towns big event. It was impressive and the people selling their product were knowledgeable and proud. As they should be.

We bough some beer tickets which we didn’t use up and made our way around to the brewery where we would hope to meet the Piper! The blues concert which was to be held on the brewery poroperty was sponsored by Bergoff Beer at the Joseph Huber Brewing Company.


The Joseph Huber Brewing Company was founded in 1845 in Monroe, Wisconsin. It was originally called The Blumer Brewery, but in 1947 adopted its current name. It is the oldest continually operating brewery in the Midwest and second oldest in the United States.

In 2006, Mountain Crest Brewing Co. of Calgary, Alberta, Canada, announced an agreement to purchase The Joseph Huber Brewing Company, the Huber and Rhinelander brands of beer, and the Blumers brand of soda. Berghoff beer, Huber’s most popular label, will be produced by a new company called Berghoff Brewing Co., which will contract with Mountain Crest to brew the beer at the Monroe plant. The brewery was renamed Minhas Craft Brewery.

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They didn’t have drinks available yet so Holly promptly found a pub for us and we went to it’s beer garden for a drink. But after only one round we were a bit creeped out by all the children that we moseyed back over to the brewery in hopes of meeting Mich. We met a cool cop who did some pix w/ us and he had a really good sense of humor unlike Chicago Police.

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Well Mich was obviously running late and we were about anxious to get to the campground so we rode off into the night, into a majikal night, with the help of Mortiis and Mead. We would have a long canoe trip the next day and it was time to relax.

Mead is a fermented alcoholic beverage made of honey, water, and yeast. Meadhing  is the practice of brewing mead. Mead is also colloquially known as “honey wine”. A brewery that deals specifically in mead is called either a meadery or a mazery.[

The first known description of mead is in the hymns of the Rigveda,  one of the sacred books of the historical Vedic religion and (later) Hinduism dated around 1700–1100 BC. During the “Golden Age” of Ancient Greece, mead was said to be the preferred drink.  Aristotle (384–322 BC) discussed mead in his Meteorologica and elsewhere, while Pliny the Elder (AD 23–79) called mead militites in his Naturalis Historia and differentiated wine sweetened with honey or “honey-wine” from mead.[8]

Around AD 550, the Cumbric speaking bard Taliesin wrote the Kanu y med or “Song of Mead.” The legendary drinking, feasting and boasting of warriors in the mead hall is echoed in the mead hall Dyn Eidyn (modern day Edinburgh), and in the epic poem Y Gododdin, both dated around AD 700[clarify]. The Heorot in the Anglo-Saxon epic poem Beowulf also was known to host the drinking of mead.

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Tuesday Sept 23, 857 PM

I sit here to continue my writ, sipping the last 2 of my New Glarus Spotted Cow brews.

The stars were bright and plenty that Friday night. We drank mead by firelight with the sound of Norwegian/Swedish  Black Metal playing from one of my favorite outdoor discs, the imported, “And Even Wolves Hid Their Teeth And Tongue Wherever Shelter Was Given”  compilation (Cold Meat Industry 1995). And somehow it was just the appropriate soundtrack given my companion for the weekend.

DAY TWO

We awoke at daybreak, mist covered the campground. The aura of alcohol and euphoria still swimming in my head. Johnny Cash played on the portable. Holly made Bloody Mary’s for breakfast. They were good, and they may have contributed to the remainder of the summer-like Saturday.

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 We managed to pull everything together to go on our day long canoe excursion the Sugar River, a river I know all too well.

The Sugar River is a tributary of the Pecatonica River, approximately 100 mi (160 km) long, in the U.S. states of Wisconsin and Illinois.

It rises in the hills of southwest Wisconsin, in southwest Dane County, approximately 15 mi (25 km) southwest of Madison. It meanders southeast, past Paoli and Belleville where it is dammed to form Lake Belleview. From there it meanders east of Monticello where it is joined by the Little Sugar River and flows south through Albany, and Brodhead. It crosses into northern Illinois flowing past an extensive area of the Winnebago County Forest Preserve system. These preserves are Sugar River Alder, Colored Sands, and Sugar River. The river joins the Pecatonica River in northern Winnebago County, approximately 5 mi (8 km) south of the state line and approximately 15 mi (25 km) NNE of Rockford.

Our particular trip downstream would only be 15 miles but take 5-8 hours depending on many things. Our journey would be closer to the latter. There were photos to take, accidents to happen and a detour or two en route. heh A nice alcove to phtograph.

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We had al of the essential. 2 containers of our own alcoholic concoctions and beer as well as food which mainly consisted of, what we would learn later were uncooked links of hot Italian sausage,. (sorry…. it looked done) So, we weren’t completely as organized as I usually like to be. It was a hazy morning and my  mind was distracted in a way it had not been in recent memory, and then some.

Omitting the details of my adventure on the Sugar River w/ Holly, I can only say it was a more enjoyable trip than my last few but also a lot more soggy and water logged of a day as well. Lucky for us the temperatures returned to more of a June, early July type of weather as opposed to the photo negative of the weekend we share previously at Jeff and Melissa’s wedding.

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I will say this, the woman is a damned daredevil. I’ve been on this river for 9 seasons, high and low, cluttered with debit and with a crazy drunk Hungarian. But BOY HOWDY, we took a few hits. Her longs legs showing the tell tale signs of our time on that cursed crooked creek, in bruises and cuts and scrape as if she had gotten into a throw-down with non other than Freddy Kruger himself.

It would finally be over. More than half of the booze remained, none of the food had been eaten and the camera survived. VICTORY? Only 2 people know the answer to that question.

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Where the hell are my keys? I can’t find my keys!

Dawn wrapped the day and the sky exposed it’s stars for us again, brighter this night, with falling stars and charcoal black clouds against a matte background darkness. We felt the exhaustion kick in. The locals were restless loud and annoying. The rural youth were kicking into high gear this night. In 9 months there is sure to be an underaged spawn baby boom. Oh, the indiscriminate mating rituals of a generation that doesn’t understand that urban is a city related term, and the version the idolize, is not  in our reality, a glamorous one.

We called it an early night. And the beast raged within me and would not tame till at least 2 the AM hour.

DAY THREE

Mist and fog again blanketed the campground when we awoke approximately 6 AM . It was chilly, and site C was wrecked. Something I’m getting used to with the company of my fair friend. Clothes and mud and river guck covered much of our clothing. Everything on the site was damp. And we were out of firewood, so was the campground, and as we were to discover so was the local store. DAMMIT CLEATUS!

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The soundtrack for once was not Cash as typical of me, but this morning Leonard Cohen seemed more appropriate.

As we did have an early start and the air began to warm, we took our time between the morning and out next stop, the town of New Glarus. Something else about this county of fond of, and in fact, truth be known, my most favorite thing about Green County I am fond of.

I made a big breakfast consisting of asparagus, eggs, w/ Wisconsin cheese, jalapeños, basil that Holly added, and salmon patties. We were revisited by a seemingly stray and/or abandoned male cat that had visited us many times over the weekend. It was hungry as we knew and I suggested the salmon, which the feline lapped up like it’s last supper.

We took our time packing and loading up. Holly made some art in her journal with charcoal from the fire and pen. I played Type O Negative, and the track, a cover of “Angry Inch” which I hope might amuse her. I think it did.

(and she found the keys as promised)

By 130 P we were on our way to the longest Sunday, a long Sunday in “Americas Little Switzerland”, New Glarus, WI. Along the way we stopped to take photos in a field. She took photos of me driving, herslef and her feet. And she was shedding her lovely braids. Rapunzel no more.

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The first stop would be the New Glarus hotel, where we would end up having lunch. We had drinks. And it seemed we were running out of time.

Holly went in before I, as I parked her car. I enter the lobby and am asked by the hostess if I’m here to cause trouble, and I reply, of course. We debated on where to go and had decided it’d be nice to have a drink inside.

We were seated in the balcony at the NG Hotel, and once she saw the menu, both of our appetites were revived. Across from me with her braids falling below the table top, she ordered a glass of Kettle One wine. I had a Spotted Cow. Again, this is when I’d really learn how much Miss E enjoyed taking her time. I should have known from our previous dining experiences. It normally turns into a couple hours of banter. However, I was anxious, I wanted to take her around the village. Something I would attempt numerous times to no avail. We would eventually hop from pub to pub, though I did find a rare Jemimah at the shoppe I like to frequent on my visits to New Glarus.

We stopped and drank in the beer garden at Tofflers Bar & Grill, where we sipped for about 2 hours, went around the block an ended up at the Sportsman’s Bar and Grill for a Bloody Mary and some chit chat. The day had escaped us, as had Mich. We decided to stop in the red bar of the Hotel which was vacant and this is where we were left alone, and it was a nice way to end the day. Night fell early and we still had a long drive home. Holly wasn’t feeling well and she was also exhausted. Myself I was alive and well and maybe under the influence of a lil harmless public display of attention, not something I’m likely known for, nonetheless was captured on film and may have sealed my destiny in my favorite lil Wisconsin Village.

We said our farewells to our waitress Courtney and were off on the 3 plus hour drive home in the dark. My road companion fell asleep in my lap an Kid Rock played on the CD changer as it had our entire journey, but one that the return would be interrupted.

Just as I reached the NG Woods I was pulled over by the police. A headlight was out. He gave us a friendly reminder and after running my license, asked if there was anything he could do. He was a nice guy. And just then Mich called, we JUST missed each other again. Holly fell back asleep on my lap as I made my way south on 81 as far as the highway, it was 845 PM, and driving home with one headlight did not appeal to me, especially with the single lane construction ahead.

In my ultimate wisdom, I decided to seek lodging for the night, and chose a Holiday Inn in Beloit just off the expressway. This proved to be a good idea. I had to be at work the next morning, and a good night sleep and a drive in the light was much more appealing to me. And at least I’d have someone to talk to.

And besides the sheer thought of getting into the city, after a near 4 hour haul, and unpacking and taking the gear up 3 flights of steep stairs was futile at this point.

I went in and secured a room on the first floor. The managers name was Stephanie, I asked her kindly for a wake up call tomorrow at 4AM. She replied that 4 M was not tomorrow, it was tonight. Well, I live in the real world honey, and my response was gentle, I really HAVE to be at work tomorrow. Our lady was out like a sack of potatoes across the front seats, I didn’t want to attempt to pursued her to walk up a flight, as it would bring more of an interruption to her slumber than what I feel she deserved. I suppose in hindsight I could have carried her if need be, but that would have proved an interesting sight to the locals, who were held up in their rooms like a swinger convention of 70 proportions. I don’t mean the 1970’s mind you; these folk were in their 70’s! Besides she is someone that shared the same curse of insomnia that I do had no problem sleeping over the weekend. I think the outdoors is what the doctor ordered.

After check in the next challenge was to get Holly to wake up. This was almost funny, she was really sleeping again. So I plied her with “PLEASE” and got her inside, turned on the AC and went back out to the car for the rest of my overnight gear, stopped by Wendy’s where the manger that served me was also named Stephanie. (What is this the uber popular WI name for many born of the fairer sex?)

By 945 PM we were both sound asleep only to be awakened by the call at 4AM and we were on the road by 430AM.

It was a perfect end to an otherwise lousy summer and I think we both had smiles on our faces. As we got off of the expressway and onto Irving Park Road heading back to my flat, I pointed out the massive orange sun directly ahead. She joined me in astonishment and in her true fashion grabbed her camera for the final shot.

By 655 AM we were on my block of the city and the signs were painfully clear that our escape was over. The city were already towing cars that by law had till 7 AM to be moved. We were witnessing illegal acttivity by the city of Chicago. Sometimes 5 minutes makes all of the difference when it comes to having your car towed and impounded. Especially when you only live a 90 second walk from your front door to where you parked your car prior.

Yes it was over. But not forgotten.

By 8AM I was in my office at work. By noon I had received nearly all of the photographs she had downloaded. The choicest of the over 300 shots she performed.

Thank you Holly, thank you so very much. - AZ


 

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September Mourn

Irving Park Road heading east, 650 AM first day of autumn 2008

- photo by Holly

September 9, 2008

Zander’s Expedition to “The Last Frontier” August 2002

From the original MK ULTRA Diaries, which were missing till yesterday. I found a link to my trip to Alaska. Here it is as a revisit as I am not adding any new enteries in the Diary at this time or sharing anything that I’ve been up to. 

Things shall be exciting soon enough. - az
  
Hello readers. First of all thanks to Moe for keeping the site updated in my absence. My sidekick did a killer job and I didn’t get to see it till today. Most of the time I was where there are no phones so that meant no computers as well. So kudos to Moe.

Also, we got to hang w/ DANZIG and PRONG the night before we left for “The Land of The Midnight Sun”. (Believe me, it’s freaking weird when you wear sunglasses at 11pm to shade the sun and not to look cool.) We will have lots of pix from DANZIG and PRONG and from the trip as well.
 
We started in Fairbanks, rode a train to Denali, and took a bus 6 hrs. to a Backcountry Lodge, which is the furthest west, any road goes in the state. It was a dirt road as well. I rode in a Cessna up around Mt. McKinley and it’s surrounding glaciers, did lots of hiking, took a shuttle to Tankeetna for a night and then traveled to Seward the nest day. From Seward we took a ship out to Fox Island and stayed in a cabin, hiked the mountain there, and the next day shuttled up to Anchorage. >From there we stayed the only night with luxurious accommodations in the Sheraton and then went to Whittier to catch a 3-night 4 day cruise thru glaciers and then got to go white water rafting in Valdez in glacier water.

So basically I was out of touch till I checked in w/ Moe about MK ULTRA and the state of my cats Rammestein and Wolfgang. ½ a month is a long time to be away from work, and my cats, despite all of the wildlife I encountered on the trip. But more in detail tomorrow, and lot’s of details indeed to share. AZ is back at the helm and get ready for some HOT AUGUST NIGHTS!!! 8/2002

1) Chicago, IL USA

Woke up feeling extremely tired. Only got 3 hrs of sleep. Last night was the Danzig and Prong show at House of Blues. It was an all ages event, which I hate because it has to start early and end by 10pm. And Glen always drags 3 other bands out with him. Luckily for us Prong was on the bill. So we got the HOB and met up w/ everyone. SuZn got a box and we had the whole crew in. 15 of Chicago’s maddest and baddest together for a night of devilicious rock n roll. I ran into Brian Perry bassist for Prong early on and we brought him into our private room in the Foundation Room. Then we hooked up w/ Dan and later Tommy. We found Sabrina Satana and she joined all of us in the booth and in our room. After the show we all hooked up in our “Divinity Room” and the guys from Danzig hung out with us as well. We as usual took a lot of photos. When they ran us all out we met up at Liars Club and things started getting sketchy. After that for some reason some of us regrouped at Smart Bar and closed it down. Also got to meet Lisa from Chroma Zone. Check them out on mp3.com. Have to finish packing for Alaska.

2) Anchorage, Alaska USA

Imagine yourself stepping back in time to a place where there are no phones, no TVs, and no sounds of the modern day technological world, yet plenty of comfort, which is what our expedition of Alaska was to be all about. We left Chicago at 8:45am and flew into Anchorage where we transferred to a flight into Fairbanks. First time flying first class and for a flight this long it was really nice. The bloody mary’s made it more relaxing as well. They gave us laptop DVD players and our choice of 7 movies. I watched Shipping News. Got to the hotel about 230 and checked in. Had dinner and then drove out to check out the pipeline. At 1030 pm was still wearing sunglasses.

3) FAIRBANKS/DENALI, Alaska USA

After a 6am breakfast buffet we boarded at train and rode it for 4 hours thru the mountains to the entrance of Denali National Park, which is over 6 million acres. We had lunch there and then got on a bus and took it on a 6hr. drive out to The Denali Backcountry Lodge in Kantishna. It is the furthest any road goes west in the state. And it was a dirt and gravel road. En route we encountered a lot of wildlife including: 46 Caribou, 1 Moose, 1 Grizzly bear, 1 Golden Eagle being chased and attacked by 3 Magpies, a Snow hare, 1 Swan and Shovelhead ducks. Right before 6pm a huge storm erupted and the road was washed out. We were stuck on one side of it and their busses coming out on the other side. It took about 90 minutes but the plowed it over and managed to re-route the water. At 830 we got to the Lodge, which is located at the heart of the Great Alaska wilderness in Denali National Park with adjacent boreal forest and tundra. We checked into our cabin and were rushed right into the lodge for dinner. I was wiped out and needed sleep badly. At 11pm I was still wearing sunglasses. I was about to learn that it only stays dark this time of year between 230 and 4 AM.

4) KANTISHNA, Alaska USA

After a 6AM breakfast (I was learning quick that they intend to keep you well fed here.) We decided to take a flight seeing tour of Mt. McKinley and got on board a Cessna with Jean and Carol who also happen to be from Chicago. On the way up I saw a black bear in the tundra. We were about to discover that there is no better way to tour Denali than by aircraft. Our pilot was a real daredevil too. As we approached the mountain through the clouds, which disappeared behind us, Mt. McKinley came into view, and its monumental size became apparent. We flew at an elevation of 8000 to 10000 feet, over one of the base camps used by climbing expeditions that attempt to summit the mountain, and the alpine glaciers, gorges, and geological formations. The pilot even attempted to cause an avalanche by flapping the wing of the plane in order to cause vibrations to create the reaction. He failed. After the flight we took a little hike around the lodge and the river. One other thing I learned is that the mosquitoes are abundant in Denali. I mean to say the forest is infested with these mean bloodsuckers. We wore 100% deet at all times and mosquito nets on our heads a lot. After dinner went out to Wonder Lake. We hung out there for about and hour fighting off mosquitoes. On the drive back we saw another moose and then we went to sleep. At this point I still hadn’t seen the dark since arriving in Alaska.

5) KANTISHNA, Alaska USA

After breakfast we went on a morning hike in the tundra. It was like walking on a huge mosquito infested sponge. Saw wolf, beaver, moose and black bear tracks. Had to wear knee high rubber boots and a mosquito net over my hat. Still the fuckers managed to bite thru my heavy cotton shirt. My shoulders were covered with bites. After the hike we went hiking in the Moose River, it’s current was fast, fierce and strong. In the afternoon I sat on the deck of the lodge and finished reading the Evel Knievel biography that Chris Curry bought for me and I saw a moose and it’s calf walk out of the trees and into the river right in front of us. This mammoth beast didn’t even seem to be aware of human presence; they just went about their business.

6) TALKEETNA, Alaska USA

Woke up at 445Am for 515 breakfast, and then got on the bus for the 6 hr ride back out of the park. Saw a total of 25 caribou, 5 Dall sheep, 1 Grizzly bear and it’s cub, a long tailed Yager and other species of birds. Got to the train depot at noon and after lunch at The Perch rode in a shuttle bus a few hours to Talkeetna. We checked into the Swiss-Alaska Inn and took a walk around the small town before dinner. Most of the people who live here don’t have electric or telephones. Population of Talkeetna: 281. After dinner we went to West Rib Pub and Grill for drinks. They had Ice Axe Ale, which is brewed exclusively, or them and it contained 9% alcohol. Ice Axe is the Mt. Hood Brewing Co.’s best selling beer. They are only permitted to sell 2 pints per customer but when the waitress was impressed with my consumption of the 2 she happily offered me a third. It did help me to get good nights sleep

7) SEWARD/FOX ISLAND, Alaska USA

Woke up at 645 for breakfast and left town at 8AM to travel to Seward. It was another long day of traveling and I was seriously starting to feel antsy. Too much down time between locations. I was running out of reading material and find it impossible to sleep in the vicinity of other people. We rode along the Cook Inlet Basin and managed to see a small herd of Dall Sheep on the cliffs. At 3pm we arrived in Seward and spent and hour or so at the Alaska SeaLife Center where they do marine research, rehabilitation, and visitor education. Afterwards we walked around town a bit and were in awe of all o the pubs. I asked one fellow what they do when it’s dark 24-7 and he replied, “We drink.” At 5 PM we boarded the Glacier Queen and took the 1-hour journey out to Fox Island. This was to be my favorite location of the trip. Located about 14 ocean miles from Seward, Fox Island is a scenic remote retreat at the entrance to Resurrection Bay. The area features protected coves and wildlife such as sea lions, otters, whales, eagles and puffins are often seen. Other than the skeleton crew the 10 people in our group, our guide Layla, and 2 other guests Mark and Wendy, we were the only humans on the island. This place was nothing short of paradise. No phones and no electricity. Our log cabin had beautiful views on both sides. After dinner we went hiking up in the mountain by ourselves. Some of the others went kayaking. Mark asked me if I was a member of KISS. Apparently he was under the impression I was one of them. Damn I must be getting old. Those guys are almost 20 yrs my senior. As I retreated to the cabin to sleep I still had not seen the dark.

8) Cooper Landing, Alaska USA

Woke up at 530 for breakfast and the Glacial Explorer docked to pick us up for a 6 hr tour. We cruised along the Kenai Fjords National Park, which encompasses approximately 580,000 acres on the rugged outer Kenai Peninsula coastline. The Harding Icefield covers over 300 square miles of the park, with snow and ice accumulations thousands of feet thick. The Icefield has approximately 40 outlet glaciers; some are tidewater, including Harding, Holgate, Northwestern, and Aialik Glaciers. The cold and rainy journey boasted an abundance of seabirds, including puffins, murres, bald eagles, and marine mammals including sea otters, and Steller sea lions. But we didn’t get to see any whales. The waves, due to the weather, were tossing the boat all over the place. People were puking over the side of the ship, someone yakked all over the bathroom walls and a few of us were feeling a bit seasick including myself. The food was terrible so it didn’t help matters. The best part was getting to watch the glaciers calf. The booming sound thru the natural amphitheatre was amazing, and the crashing of the ice caused huge waves that tossed the ship like a toy boat. After the tour we got back to Seward and got on the shuttle and drove to Exit Glacier. We parked and walked the quarter mile trail up to stones throw of the icy mass. The 3-mile-long “river of ice,” fractured and crackling, pours 2,500 feet down out of the Harding Icefield. From under the snout comes Exit Creek, a rapid gray mixture of ice-cold water and glacial flour. The crevasse’s glowed an eerie sapphire blue. When we finished there we drove out to the 3-mile-long “river of ice,” fractured and crackling, pours 2,500 feet down out of the Harding Icefield. From under the snout comes Exit Creek, a rapid gray mixture of ice-cold water and glacial flour. We departed and traveled to Cooper Landing. Population of Cooper Landing: 215, Layla had the shuttle stop at Wild Mans Liquor so people could pick up supplies. We arrived at Kenai Riverside Cabins along the banks of the Kenai River and adjacent to Chugach National Forest and Kenai National Wildlife Refuge. Our cabin was a cozy little log cabin named Yukon. It didn’t have a bathroom so the shower/toilets was a short walk thru the woods.

9) Cooper Landing, Alaska USA

Woke up at 545 to shower and eat breakfast. Edie made an incredible batch of breakfast enchiladas. I enjoyed it so much she saved me one to have with lunch. At 845 we got into rafts to float down the river in the cold rain for 2 hours. We saw hundreds of people fishing for salmon and they jumped u out of the water going upstream to spawn and die. Saw a total of 4 Bald Eagles, which by this point have been a more than random occurrence. When we returned from the trip we had halibut chili and I also ate my other enchilada. At 145 we went on a hike on a 4-½ mile stretch of the Russian Lakes Trail, which went mostly through forest. The trail went up to Russian River Falls, where we got to watch spawning red salmon jumping through the falls. It was amazing to say the least. I’ve only seen this on cable and it was a great surprise to see it in person. Literally, it looked as one could walk across the fish, that’s how thick it was w/ salmon. Feeling wiped out we went back to another big dinner and as it poured rain we stayed up in our cabin polishing off the vodka and trying to find music on the radio.

10) Anchorage, Alaska USA

Woke up and at 845 traveled to Portage Glacier, which was also described to as hosting the worst weather in Alaska. And I believe it. The fucking thing makes it’s own weather. In the last few years the glacier face has begun retreating from the lake it created. A small section in the center has exposed bedrock but much of the glacier face is still in the water and extends down more than 100 feet into Portage Lake. We walked around and went into the gift shop for coffee. After that we went to the outskirts of Anchorage and The Alaska Native Heritage Center. It provides programs in an informal settings, includes workshops, demonstrations and guided tours of indoor exhibits and outdoor village sites. I had reindeer sausage for lunch. We were there for 2-½ hrs and I was anxious to get into town. The weather was clear as we arrived in downtown Anchorage at the Sheraton Hotel. This was our only brush w/ luxury on the trip. I went right for CNN after saying goodbye to our guide Layla. Population of Anchorage: 256921, which is roughly ½ of the population of the whole state. We went to dinner at Glacier BrewHouse after shopping and sightseeing. The wait was 90 minutes but they had really good beer to keep us occupied. I had King Crab Legs and they were tasty. We walked around a bit more and went back to the comfort of the hotel and sacked out.

11) Whittier, Alaska USA

Woke up at 7Am and wrote postcards out and went to breakfast. I had reindeer sausage again and buffalo sausage. Then we walked in the rain to the mall to buy books. I needed something else to read so I got, Better Than Sex by HST, Hells Angel by Sonny Barger, and a Warhol retrospect as well as some magazines. We rode a charted bus to Whittier, which is a small depressing town where all the residents live in the same building. NO SHIT! Population of Whittier: 237. The town is only accessible by a tunnel, which only opens going in or out one way every ½ hr. Also there is a train that shares the same tunnel after the hole closes at 8PM. We got on board the Spirit Of Colombia and checked into our quarters at the front of the ship on the 3rd of four levels. It holds 78 guests are 143 feet in length and a cruising speed of 10 knots. We were in cabin 302. I was sooo tired after dinner and after a few cocktails tried to get some sleep. We were to spend 4 days and 3 nights thru Prince William Sound, which is Alaska’s world-class cruising area. The Sound teems with sea otters, bald eagles, whales, and a stunning array of seabirds. Cruise West offers 3- and 4-night cruises through these pristine waterways, with more glaciers, wilder shorelines, and less marine traffic than the traditional Inside Passage. At 1030 PM still under sunlight we were awakened to come on deck and view a huge school of Dall Porpoise’s who were following the ship playing in the wake. They were many and followed for over an hour. It was a sight to behold. The Dall Porpoise looks like a mini Orca Whale. It was well worth getting dressed and braving the cold.

12) “Somewhere” in the Prince William Sound, Alaska USA

Woke up at 6 for breakfast at 7. The shower in the cabin wins the all time award for smallest shower/toilet of my life. Thereafter I was feeling bored. I began reading the Barger book. It’s very intriguing. I feel like all they do is keep you on board (bored) and feed you. Icebergs and glaciers are all starting to look the same. Sea Lions and Otters are too common at this point. Still haven’t seen a whale of any kind. I had 6 Jameson’s and Ginger Ale through out the day. Dr. Wolf (from NYC w/ his wife Joan) seems to be amused. It’s like 6 drinks in 8-10 hrs is nothing. I do that in 90 min back home. By dinner I had finished the Sonny Barger bio. It was too good to put down. Talk about freedom fighters/ A little crime aside these guys fight the system for the right to be individuals. After dinner the captain announced we were along side a slue of Stellar Sea Lions and that you could smell them. Out of curiosity I opened the cabin door. Well they were right there outside of OUR door. And the stench was one so overwhelming I will not soon forget nor forgive it. It seemed to intrigue a lot of folks willing to brave the foul odor of stinking sea mammal. I had enough and closed the door, but it was too late. The cabin had filled up w/ the agonizing aroma of these beasts. Luckily we bought a scented candle at Portage Glacier, so we lit it and after about n hour were saved. It was a restless night of trying to sleep. I had too much on my mind. I was missing MK and it’s world, listening to music, my cats, and was worrying about affairs back home on which I was powerless to check on.

13) Prince William Sound / Valdez Alaska USA

Today was the day that I’d been looking forward to for years. As a canoe enthusiest I’ve dreamed for years of white water rafting. Well today would be the day and the water was a brisk 34-37 degrees. We arrived in Valdez early, Population of Valdez: 4106, and were picked up in a bus and transported to the outskirts of town. We signed up for the Lowe River trip, through Keystone Canyon, which is one of Alaska’s most exciting and spectacular river trips. The river flows through a deep canyon, with sheer cliff walls and beautiful waterfalls cascading from its sides. During our raft trip we will float past Bridal Veil Falls, which cascades 900 feet from the canyon wall. The mountains surrounding the canyon are capped with snow and many spectacular glaciers. I was put in the front and everyone in the raft was given a paddle after suiting up. This was one of the biggest rushes of my life. The water and the action was one of the most exhilarating moments of my life. It seemed to go so fast. I could have done this for hours. But before long it was over and we were headed back to town. But I am now addicted and plan to make next summer a quest for rafting in upper Wisconsin and in Colorado en route to the Grand Canyon. On the way back we stopped at the site of where Valdez was located when the big quake hit Alaska in 1964. While there we watched the salmon spawn and swim upstream. Some of them running short on time and passing the salmon that were mating and having their last hurrah. We went back and enjoyed the final two meals and then after looking at more glaciers headed in to sleep. At about 10 or so we were awakened by screams, which was followed by a huge wave that lifted the boat up and down. There was yet another calving of a glacier. It was explained that the ice wall was as large as the boat. And I believe it from the way the ship was tossed. I then went back to sleep looking forward to the trip home the next day.

14) Whittier / Anchorage, Alaska USA

Woke up for breakfast and bid farwell to the Spirit O Columbia and its crew. After boarding the bus we still had a little time before the tunnel open to escape Whittier, which we heard referred to as nothing prettier, too many times to count. But I’ve come to the assumption that the people who inhabit the region call it Whittier no place shittier. There was Chinese Buffet restaurant that advertised permanently on the building that they had an all you can eat salard bar. Spelled S-A-L-A-R-D. What is salard???? Finally we were on the way back to Anchorage and up the same road we’d been on 3 times before. Alaska was un, clean, and beautiful, but after 4 days on that fucking boat I was ready, willing and anxious to return to the traffic, humidity, and crime ridden streets of Chicago. We ate lunch w/ our traveling companions at the museum for the last time. Pat and Hank, Lewis and Joan, Jean and Carol, and Doris and Leslie were about to see us for the last time. We took a few photos said goodbyes and went to Humpy’s, which is a brew pub to spend the remainder of our time before heading to the airport. The plane left at 830 PM and we landed in Chicago at 530 AM.

15) Chicago, IL USA

Population of Chicago: 2775275 Hazy, hot and humid. Hundred of emails, lot’s of mail to sort and a lot of questions about the diary on the site from which you are now reading. Got with Moe for dinner at Red Light. Sabrina Satana was our waitress and the receipt # was 9666. NO SHIT. We planned for a long day of work the next day.